The LUC collection, as we know it today, is the fruit of the Chopard Manufacture’s long-standing efforts in the field of fine watchmaking. Its existence began in 1996 with the introduction of the LUC 1860, a date and time only watch that many considered a masterpiece of classic watch design. The flagship timepiece was powered by the seal of Geneva and the COSC-certified 96.01-L caliber, the first movement created by the manufacture after its founding, and a movement that would later serve as a model for future LUC calibers.
Review: Chopard LUC Quattro Spirit 25
This year, the famous LUC line celebrates its 25th anniversary. For this occasion, Chopard has prepared a worthy anniversary timepiece which is the culmination of the Manufacture’s watchmaking expertise: the LUC Quattro Spirit 25.
Entirely produced in-house, the Quattro Spirit 25 is the brand’s first watch with the jumping hour function. But there is more to the room than a jumping hour display. Here we present you the facts and our thoughts on the new Chopard LUC Quattro Spirit 25.
The case, dial and hands
The case of the LUC Quattro Spirit 25 measures a contemporary 40mm in diameter and 10.3mm in height. Chopard has used 100% ethical Fairmined gold for years in all of its jewelry and watches, and the gold used in the Quattro Spirit 25 is no exception. Its ethical 18-carat rose gold case features sharply rounded shapes inspired by the hunter-type cases of pocket watches once designed by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the brand’s founder. While the flanks are given a vertical satin finish, the rest of the case – including the lugs, crown, and bezel – are polished, giving a striking yet pleasing contrast.
But as laudable as the case is, nothing beats the face of this watch. First of all, the dial: immaculate and succulent. The pure white dial is produced entirely in-house by the artisan enameller of Manufacture Chopard. Crafted on an 18k rose gold base, the big fire The enamel dial is fired several times at extreme temperatures of up to 820 degrees Celsius. It is then lightly polished to give it a slightly domed appearance that creates unique light interactions. Using black enamels, the craftsman then uses the same process to reproduce the âLUCHOPARDâ logo with the railway circle and the Arabic numerals indicating the minutes. Indeed, the whole dial is enamel, not just ink printed on white enamel.
The main topic of discussion for the dial is, of course, the âhybridâ way of telling the time. While the minutes are conventionally indicated by means of a dauphine hand, the hours are displayed on a disc through an aperture at 6 o’clock. The rose gold guillotine frame serves to accentuate the sobriety of the large black Arabic numerals.
As an instrument for measuring time, the Quattro Spirit 25 fulfills its duty to the tee. The black on white color palette of its dial gives it exceptional readability. The fact that there is only one needle and an aperture display on the dial means there is no clutter or distraction. As a birthday coin, it also ticks the right boxes. While the jumping hour feature is nothing new in watchmaking, it’s quite rare that when you see it it still fascinates you. In addition, it is also a first Chopard. The novelty of the jumping hour in the LUC collection, combined with the beauty of an enamel dial, makes the Quattro Spirit 25 a dignified and appropriate party timepiece.
The Caliber LUC 98.06-L with 240 parts and 42 jewels is at the wheel of the Quattro Spirit 25. The movement is one of the few to have jumping hours (energy-hungry technical complication) to offer up to eight days of reserve. Steps.
Thanks to four barrels stacked and coupled in series based on Chopard’s Quattro technology, the LUC Quattro Spirit 25 maintains a reserve above 190 hours despite the amount of energy required to rotate the hour disc. The movement is hand-wound and operates at a modern frequency of 4 Hz. It is also fitted with a gooseneck regulator (found on the balance bridge) for fine adjustment and a hairspring with a terminal curve. Phillips who controls the oscillation of the scale.
The craftsmanship devoted to the LUC Quattro Spirit 25 has earned it the PoinÃ§on de GenÃ¨ve. It not only guarantees the quality, precision and reliability of the movement and the watch as a whole, but also guarantees that the assembly has been carried out in the canton of Geneva. The high level of finish of the caliber LUC 98.06-L also plays an important role. Looking through the sapphire crystal caseback, one will find movement bridges fully adorned with Geneva waves, impeccably bevelled and polished edges, gold-filled engravings, and mirror-polished screw heads to a blinding shine.
The competitive landscape
The Quattro Spirit 25 as a whole is a significant anniversary piece. It highlights the absolute watchmaking quality that has always been the signature of the LUC collection. Being entirely manufactured in-house, from the case and the dial to the movement, is still a rarity today and is a reminder of what the Manufacture Chopard is capable of. And above all, it features elements that make the watch memorable, such as the atypical time display and the fully enameled dial. You would be hard pressed to find a jumping hour watch of this caliber. The LUC Quattro Spirit 25 is made in a limited edition of 100 pieces and is priced at SGD61,700.
If the Quattro Spirit 25 doesn’t stand out enough for you, a great alternative would be none other than the Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Virtuoso V. Just like its Chopard counterpart, the Virtuoso V only shows the time and does so with a dial hand. minutes plus jumping hour display. The main differences here are that the minutes are retrograde and the hour display is slightly larger. The dial of the Virtuoso V is also guillochÃ© and blue lacquered. Rendered in red gold, the case is also significantly larger at 43.5 x 15.7mm. The exclusive Amadeo case allows the wearer to easily switch from wristwatch to pocket watch or table clock, without tools or specialist knowledge. With a substantial five-day power reserve, the red gold Virtuoso V is valued at around SGD 100,000.
Another alternative to the Quattro Spirit 25 that must be considered is the IWC tribute to Pallweber â150 yearsâ. The Jubilee watch not only has a jumping hour display, but also jumping minutes – a rare combination in the world of mechanical watchmaking. The main drawback of the Homage to Pallweber, in our opinion, is its unwieldy 45mm case. The reason for such a large case is likely to maximize the size – and therefore the readability – of the time display. Despite the size of the case, the Tribute to Pallweber is an immensely charming watch in terms of design and mechanics, and a tribute watch to Austrian watchmaker Josef Pallweber. The watch was also designed with relative ‘value for money’ in mind, with the stainless steel version of the watch costing less than $ 25,000.
The Quattro Spirit 25 is one of the most atypical LUC watches to come out in recent years, making it an ideal anniversary piece. Of course, the watch is more than the novelty of its jumping hour feature; it is backed by solid design, impeccable craftsmanship and expert watchmaking, all made in-house.
With the Quattro Spirit 25, Chopard continues to remind us that it is more than just a fine jewelry brand, that it is also a force to be reckoned with in high-end watchmaking.
Notes on the photo
Photographed at Chopard’s Singapore offices. Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC 4/120 and HC 2.8 / 80 with extension tube H28. Strobe Profoto.